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The following are specs I recommend when buying a diamond:

Clarity: VVS2 - VS2

Anything clearer than VS1 cannot be seen with the naked eye, so higher clarity is more for knowledge sake than beauty. Even VVS2 is more than you need. On the other end of the spectrum, some SI diamonds look great but others don't. You would have to see it in person AND know what you're looking at to find a SI diamond that looks great. Also, the more heavily included, the more chance of breaking your diamond while setting. I do not recommend I clarity diamonds or below, ever.

Cut: better

Every site has different ratings for cut, which is possibly the most important "C" when it comes to sparkle. While I have not inspected enough diamonds from different distributors to tell the difference between their ratings, I recommend the higher end of the scale. As with all grading, the incremental difference between "Ideal" and "Signature Ideal" will be small. I'll mention again that this is probably the most important "C." When naive consumers think they are getting a "deal" on a diamond, this "C" is often at play.

Color: F - H

Like the clarity, there comes a point where you're paying for the letter rather than something you can see. An expensive D diamond in no longer D once she applies moisturizer to her hands. I begin to see yellow on I and lower diamonds and while they still look great, if you buy an I or J diamond expect it to be a little dark. That said, an L diamond with good cut and clarity, in the right setting, on the right woman can look spectacular.

Carat: any

The size of your diamond is solely a matter of your and her taste. A high quality diamond looks fantastic no matter what the size. In general, a small, high quality diamond looks better than a large crapola diamond.

Girdle: consistent

If this is your first stone setting experience, keep it simple. A girdle that is thin to very thick will be difficult for you to set straight. A very thin girdle will be easier to chip. A thick girdle will add unwanted carat weight to your diamond, making it expensive and difficult to set.

Fluorescence: less

Strong fluorescence will make the diamond slightly milky and a little less sparkly.

Buying the diamond

As I mentioned on the previous page, my top choices for places to buy diamonds are: my shop, online, or 47th St. Please Be Careful - most people looking for a "deal" on a diamond get the opposite. For the online shoppers, try:

Diamond.com

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